Cocido madrileño is the one recipe I’ve been looking forward to writing the most ever since I started Foodiekake two years ago. It’s my all time favorite Spanish meal, not only because it’s incredibly comforting and delicious, but because it represents many generations of Spanish tradition and cuisine all encompassed in one plate.
My two grandmothers used to make cocido very often when I was growing up. Now, their recipes live on in my house through my mom, who also makes it almost every time I visit (I guilt her into it). My recipe is a combination of those flavors I remember from my grandmothers’ recipes as well as my mom’s method.
As someone that has lived outside of my home country for almost all of my life, it’s the simple things — such as a hearty plate of my family’s cocido — that keep me connected to my heritage and my roots.
For my food history nerds
The name ‘cocido madrileño’ is a bit misleading as it’s uncertain where exactly this dish originated. All we know is that it goes back all the way to the Middle Ages, and it most likely evolved from a Jewish dish called adafina, which was consumed during Shabat. Adafina was a chickpea stew, with plenty of veggies and meat — very similar to the cocido we have in Spain today.
When the Jewish community in Spain was expelled in 1492, many of the culinary traditions, including adafina, were preserved by the Sephardic Jews who migrated to other parts of Europe, the Middle East, and North Africa. Over time, these culinary traditions influenced the development of regional dishes in Spain, and cocido madrileño was one of them.
Over time, cocido madrileño evolved in the context of Spanish Catholic culture. It began to incorporate pork, as well as chorizo and morcilla (blood sausage) which were not found in the traditional adafina. It’s now a signature dish in Madrid and the surrounding areas, and a very popular one to eat during the colder months when people crave more hearty, warming meals.
A note on the ingredients
Like many traditional stewy recipes, this one is a labor of love and time. Also, it’s very dependent on which ingredients you use. Unfortunately, I will never be able to recreate a perfect cocido for you all while I live in the United States. You see, where I live it’s just impossible to find a good jamón or chorizo that will do this dish justice. And don’t even get me started about the morcilla — the fact that I can’t even include it truly breaks my heart. But, we make do with what we got. I’ve adapted my recipe so that it’s as close as possible to what you would get in Spain using ingredients that can be found in the USA. But just know, if you have the real thing in Spain it will be a trip to heaven for your taste buds.
Video recipe linked here
INGREDIENTS (6 Servings)
14 oz (395g) chickpeas, soaked in water overnight
1 ham bone (if you can’t find it at the grocery store, a butcher will typically have this)
14oz (400g) beef bones, such as marrow or shank
13.7 oz (390g) beef chuck, cut into chunks
12.3 oz (350g) cured ham (jamon ibérico or serrano would be ideal, but can sub for prosciutto if you can’t find it)
12 oz (340g) cured salt pork
2 bone-in and skin-on chicken thighs
½ cabbage, finely chopped
2 Spanish chorizo sausages (brands I like in the USA include Palacios and Goya)
Optional: 2 Spanish blood sausages (I say optional because they’re hard to find in the USA, but if you’re lucky to come across some good ones 1. tell me where and 2. add them in!)
2 bay leaves
2 carrots, peeled
1 celery stick
1 leek, green parts removed
2 potatoes, peeled and cut in half
3 garlic cloves
½ tablespoon smoked paprika
Olive oil
Kosher salt
Equipment: Large pot with a cover, cheesecloth bag, large bowl, oven-safe tray, big serving tray or plate
METHOD
The day before, soak the chickpeas in water. Add them to a large bowl and add water to cover them by 2 to 3 inches. Discard any black beans or any beans that float to the surface. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and leave it on the kitchen counter overnight. The next morning, strain and rinse the soaked beans
First start by roasting the beef and ham bones. Preheat the oven to 425F (215C). Spread the bones over an oven-safe tray and drizzle them with olive oil. Roast for 30 minutes
Add the roasted bones to a large pot for which you have a lid for, and cover with cold water until the pot is almost full of water. Bring to a boil. As the water rises to temperature, skim off the foam that rises to the surface using a spoon. Boil the bones for 15 minutes, making sure to continue to remove any foam that appears in the surface
To the same pot, add the beef chuck chunks, the cured ham, and the cured salt pork. Bring liquid back to a boil. Once it begins to boil, lower the temperature to a simmer. Simmer for an additional 10 minutes. Continue to skim off any foam that rises to the surface
Meanwhile, add the chickpeas to a cheesecloth bag and loosely tie it. Then, add them to the simmering pot along with a very generous pinch of salt. Cover the pot with a lid and simmer for 2 hours. During those two hours, continue to check on it to make sure the liquid stays at a simmer. Continue to skim off any foam that rises to the surface using a spoon – it should be less and less as time passes
After two hours, add the carrot, leek, celery stick, bay leaves, and chicken thighs. Cover the pot and cook for 1 more hour
Meanwhile, add the cabbage and chorizo sausages to a smaller pot and cover with water. Simmer until the cabbage and the chorizo sausages are fully cooked, about 30 minutes. Strain the cabbage and chorizo sausages and reserve for later
Add the potatoes and the blood sausages (if using) to the large pot and continue to simmer for an additional 30 minutes, or until potatoes are fully cooked through (total cooking time from when chickpeas were added up to this point should be around 3 ½ hours)
Meanwhile, add a very generous gulp of olive oil to a medium pan and add the garlic. Turn the heat on to medium-low. Allow the oil to infuse with the garlic. When garlic begins to sizzle, add the paprika and stir to combine. Immediately add the cabbage and a pinch of salt. Mix to combine. Turn the heat off and set aside
When the potatoes are fully cooked, turn the heat off the pot. Remove the leek and celery stick and discard. Take the rest of the vegetables out of the pot and place them on a serving tray
Remove the meat from the pot. Shred the chicken and beef meat using a fork and knife. Place the meats on the same tray as the vegetables
Remove the chickpeas from the cheesecloth bag and add them to the same tray with the meat and veggies. Add the cabbage to the tray too
Strain the broth and discard the bones and bay leaves. Taste the broth and adjust the salt level – it might need a generous pinch!
To eat, I like to serve a little bit of everything in a large bowl. First, add the chickpeas and cover with the broth. Then, add a little bit of each meat and vegetables. Eat it up like a big, hearty and comforting soup! I like to place the tray with all the meats and veg on the center of the table and have each guest serve themselves whatever they want – family style